What is driving like in France – update

Driving in France is changing. None of the plus points in my previous post have changed, but regulations to ensure public safety are coming into force this year.

Here is a brief summary of the points which holidaymakers should be aware.

Control of speed.

Radar detectors have been illegal for some time, but now radar warnings on satnav equipment are also illegal. New systems will not include this facility, but it will be necessary to update existing ones systems so this information is no longer available.  The non-technologically inclined driver may find difficult to disengage this function although the website for our own Garmin was very helpful.

For the police, enforcing the new law will not be an easy task particularly as many vehicles now come with embedded software systems.

Nonetheless, the penalty for the new offence is steep – a fine of up to 1500 € and the loss of up to 6 points on a driver’s licence.

Using a mobile phone whilst driving.

 The fine has been increased for using a telephone whilst driving to 135 € and the loss of 3 points on your licence.  (The French systems deducts points rather than adds them!)

Straying on to the hard shoulder

The principal cause of drivers staring on to the hard shoulder is driver fatigue and up till now, straying temporarily into the emergency lane on autoroutes in France was not an offence. Under pressure from autoroute companies anxious for the safety of their workforces, the French government has introduced a new offence, effectively  clipping the hard shoulder, for which the penalty will be 135 €. Also, the existing fine for driving on the hard shoulder on French autoroutes increases from 35 € to 135 €.

Motorcyclists – high viz clothing and number plate requirements

Motorcyclists riding a motor-bike with an engine capacity exceeding 125 c.c. must wear a reflective garment. The French Department of Transport has still to define the criteria for reflective garments and the measure compelling motor-cyclists on French roads to wear something hi-viz will not come into effect before 1st January 2013. In the case of non-compliance, the offender would be liable to a fine of 68 € with a 2 point licence deduction.

There is also an alteration to the law concerning non-conforming number plates which applies to all road-users but especially bikers. The penalty for driving with a non-conforming plate increases from 68 € to 135 €. The Ministry of Transport will also introduce a new regulation concerning the size of registration plates carried by motor-bikes with the aim of making motor bikes more identifiable, especially if flashed by a speed camera.

In-car breathalysers

Local authorities have already begun to introduce on-board driver’s breath testing equipment on French school buses and such equipment will become mandatory in all vehicles in July 2012. Breathalysers will be for sale in supermarkets.

Subsequently to writing this article, The Daily Mail has published a very useful article summarising what you should be aware of.

What is the connection between Miss France and chillies?

Miss France 2012 is visiting La Fleche on February 5th and there will be a chance to see the crown specially designed for her by Julien d’Orcel displayed in the window of one of the jewellers.

So why did I notice this? It happens that whilst on holiday in the Pyrennes we went to Espilette, having seen there was a Chilli Festival there about the time we were in the area.

We saw hundreds, no thousands, no millions (now I exagerate) of chillies, but we also made a discovery. Espillete is the birthplace of Agnes Souret who was the first Miss France.  It is a charming story of how she won the title.



In 1920, after suffering the rigours of the First World War, a Parisien journalist took an initiative to raise moral. He initiated the first competition for the most beautiful woman in France.  ”La plus belle femme de France”. The journalist responsible for this grand scheme was  Maurice De Waleffe, the founder of Paris Midi.

1700 girls applied and 49 were shortlisted.  Then, each week, for 7 weeks, the photographs of 7 candidates were shown on cinema screens throughout France. A voting slip was given to everyone as they entered the cinema.

Agnes had sent a faded photo of her first communion with a letter saying that she was only 17 and did she have to cross the whole of France to try her luck?

Agnes Souret was a resounding winner and so became famous throughout France and farther afield, an innocent 17 year old girl with a Basque mother and Breton father was “La plus belle Femme de France”.

So often a charming story has a sad ending and this was so for Agnes Souret, for soon after here reign as Miss France, she died from appendicitis.

The crown will be displayed in the jewellers at 29 High Street, La Fleche, Dept 72, on Wednesday, February 8, from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. A chance for budding princesses to go and have a look as Wednesday is not a school day for French children.

Let’s have a cake, we’re on holiday!


I have a weakness of cakes, once likened to have a mouth like a CD drawer which accepts pain au raisin with ease!  I love to try local cakes. It tells me about the local produce and often includes learning a little more about the region.  But that’s an excuse, a piece of local patisserie is my treat, it lifts my spirits, gives me a sense of being spoiled.

So here are five cakes from our autumn trip.

So I started with a ‘Pastis de Quercy’

Something like filo pastry, with either apple or prunes, honey and pastis.  This one I bought at the market of Praysac, held on a Friday.  I ate it at the view point of Ballaye, overlooking stunning views of the River Lot.  We met a group of local walkers there who said we must go to Montcuq market on a Sunday  (one to save for next time)

Recipe

Next came the ‘Tarte de Lascaux’

A confection of walnut in a pastry case.  I have since seen Huw Fearnley Whittingstall make something similar on his River Cottage programme..  This came from Montignac, only a stone’s throw from the famous caves of Lascaux.  It is here especially for Karen McKenry Heller to see as my last FB post from Montignac was just the empty paper bag!

Recipe

And then a ‘Kugelhof’

In Sarlat Le Caneda I was tempted by the kugelhof, more typical of the Alsace regions, but would include raisins or fruit. This one was made with Beurre de Charente AOC and melted in the mouth.  Similar to a brioche, but lighter and far superior.

Recipe

Followed by ‘Travers au Chocolat’

This one was bought in Sarlat from the gorgeous cafe/chocolatier Lemoine. A confection of walnut and dark chocolate.  There is also one with hazelnut and milk chocolate.

The window is a feast of macarons, Le canelé  and nougat.

A beautiful shop and cafe.

And finally a ‘Lascaux’

A creation of a boulanger near Lascaux, which was a soft textured meringue tasting of almonds and filled with cream.

This boulanger still makes bread on a wood fire and we asked if there was a French loaf which would actually keep for a few days! We bought this tourte  – and it kept too!

A cautionary note:

I lost a filling at the end of the holiday – too many cakes?

A day in the life of a wobbly jelly.

A day in the life of ………. but which day, everyday is different. One of the things I love about working from home is that my work changes with the seasons. This post is just about today – tomorrow who knows!  In a few months, perhaps a different account of my daily life.

I’ve read a lot recently about the Jelly Movement! I am beginning to get what it is about, although I am sure my interpretation of a wobbly jelly is not quite the same. I wobble from job to job as they need doing. There’s inspiration while I’m weeding, seeing other areas of the garden to improve, planning new projects for our three gites in the Loire Valley or how to answer tricky questions from the anglers from all over the world, who contact us each day asking about using the silk lines we make here in France.

Wobbly Jelly from Cardtastic - Stylish Photographic Cards

 

I seek inspiration and perhaps this Jelly thing might be for me, where folks get together but doing their own work, bounce ideas off each other and learn. New ideas inspire me.  The big question is: Am I organised enough to commit to this? Would my daily routine (?read on…..) allow me to do this?

Today started at 7.30 am in the garden. It was just too hot yesterday and both the plants and I were wilting with the heat.  This morning, lovely fresh cool air and I work on one of the shrubberies before the sun got round to there. Then time to move on and check out the plants in the poly tunnel.

What a surprise was waiting for me as I walk round the corner of the barn to go the poly tunnel. The English cherry tree we planted when my granddaughter, Tia, was born was in full bloom. She will be 9 years old in June and it seems like yesterday when we planted the tree.  This beautiful tree has exploded overnight into wands of candy floss.  There will be cherries for us later and some for the birds too.

The church clock in our village, Parcay Les Pins, strikes and I forget to count the chimes.  No problem, it strikes before the hour and then after the hour. In the past it was to ensure that workers on the land or in the vines knew the time of day. It still works for me, I never wear a watch and if the wind is in the wrong direction I do not hear it at all and get extra time in the garden before other duties call.

A break at 11.00 am (‘Elevenses” – so English) with Mike. We run Phoenix Lines making fishing lines in pure silk for trout and salmon fishing and run courses on making bamboo fishing rods, so a quick discussion on where we are and what needs doing.

Today we sat under the garden abri with James who is building a second deck by the swimming pool. The shade under the abri was welcome, it is absolutely scorching around the pool. When the plum tree by the decking grows a little more there will be some lovely shade there to sit and read a book or magazine. It was heavily pruned this winter and at the moment it looks like something from science fiction.

Too hot to work outside now, so off to one of the gites to take photographs of the changes we have made.  I will probably do the same tomorrow, as I know, when I look at them this evening, there will be something out of place or not to my liking. I can be so fussy about details!

Lunch was so easy today, lots of ratatouille bottled last September which seems to be lasting too well. It’s so nice to have garden produce still at this time of year.

La Poste arrives whilst we are having lunch in the garden. We went paperless from 1st April, so all incoming papers, bank statements and so on will need to be scanned sometime today and then filed electronically. Perhaps it will make us more efficient and empty some much need drawer space – watch this space!

After lunch, I check the phone messages we might have missed between us. Whoops, our friends Any and Didier have phoned to say they have bought 10 litres of Aubance, one of the Loire’s best sweet wines, for us when they visited a favourite viticulteur. We have forgotten to collect it and the weather is getting hotter. It needs bottling and storing properly.

La Poste has delivered orders for fishing lines, invoices to do, packaging and more admin. Monday is the day for the bulk of my paperwork, but our friendly lady from La Poste keeps delivering more each day. It’s part of our daily routine to walk to the post box half way down the drive. The excitement mounts when she drives in to the yard instead of stopping at the post box. It could be a parcel or something that requires a signature. It is surprising how the visit from La Poste quickly became an important part of our daily lives.

My next job is to sort 70 new paperbacks for our Book Swap ready for our new arrivals due soon. There are now 250 paperback books for our guests to swap holiday reads for more of the same. It’s not compulsory to swap and any book half read at the end of a holiday can be taken home to keep.

Mike finishes work and goes to collect the wine from Any and Didier. It’s 6.15 pm now and this wobby jelly is going to swim in the pool and then to smarten up a little for his return and lighting the barbecue…

…….. and just as I took that decision, the phone rang. Florian Stephan, one of France’s best known fly tiers has phoned.  He lives nearby and is off to an Angling Fair early tomorrow morning.  He would like to take some more of our fly lines with him. Each one of our lines has an individual care instruction so more preparation to get them ready for him……… an extra glass of wine with the barbecue is starting to look like a reasonable reward.

So it’s time to record the orders and print the care instructions for the lines, finalise some invoices for our gite guests coming from the USA and The Netherlands.

Mike returns with steak for the barbeuce and the Aubance, apparently it is very good, the barbecue is lit and it starting to smell good. I think I will just wobble across there and have a glass of wine.

Tomorrow’s another day!

Chambre d’hôtes – we love you!

I love being in the country, I miss the fresh air when I am in a town or a built up area, I love the sound of nature and I love to see the open sky, morning light and the evening sunsets.

I find most hotels are often bland, you know the room layout will nearly always be the same and it could be gaspingly hot and dry at night. The hotel staff welcome you on arrival, but the next morning there is a different person there.

There’s lots of chambre d’hôtes in beautiful parts of the country, yet I was a little apprehensive about booking a chambre d’hôte, not quite knowing what it would be like.

Two recent journeys have convinced me that chambres d’hôtes are a better choice. The internet has made life so easy and changed things dramatically, even the smallest chambre d’hôte has a website which gives you an instant feel for the place and makes contacting the owner so easy. Whilst travelling recently, we searched the internet the night before departure and quickly arranged accommodation for the following night.

If you want to learn about the locality of where you are staying, what better than asking a local and that is the opportunity you get with a chambre d’hôte. Real live information rather than a brochure from a stand in the hotel.

We are novices as far as chambre d’hôtes go, but here are two we have enjoyed and a third which I visited last week – a new friend from Facebook just a few kilometres from our home.

Normandy – Basse Copette

Tucked away in a pretty valley in Normandy, yet convenient for our trips back to the UK and Northern Europe. Basse Copette is situated a comfortable distance from the autoroute, easy to find and a calm situation. A warm, relaxed welcome, excellent food and a host with a wealth of knowledge about the area and farther afield too.  Thomas provides a superb breakfast, a perfect start to a day at Giverny to visit Monet’s Garden or a day trip to Paris. We love it here.

Jura – Saint Ligier, Baums Les Bains

We took a detour recently on our way back from Germany to see the River Doubs, famed for its fly-fishing and for us a ‘must do’ as we make fly fishing lines in pure silk.  The scenery was stunning, sparkling streams, green valleys and high mountains. We stayed in Baumes Les Bains at the Ferme Auberge St. Ligier. We ate on the terrace in the evening looking across at the mountains and down to the town below us. We started with an aperitif and warm choux filled with Cantal cheese, then we worked our way through terrine de lapin, veau, rosti et champignons, local Cantal cheese and a delicious hazlenut gateau. There was a good list of local wines too. The milk from the farm went to the local co-operative to make the cheese we ate, the eggs and meat came from the farm too.


Pays de la Loire – L’Epronnière

Sometimes you do not realised how good things are close to home, in fact only 10 minutes away.  I went to meet the delightful Joëlle Dachelet who found me on Facebook. Joëlle and Patrice run L’Epronnière which is situated on the banks of Lac Rillé. Their property is tucked away in a protected zone for ornithology and offers amazing views over the lake. They even have built a bird hide high up in the trees on the edge of the lake which you can use. If you love nature and country life, this is a wonderful place to stay.

You may know of other little gems? I’ve already thought of several more I would like to visit.

Please post your link so others can find them too.

What is driving in France like?

Rainbow on the A28

Stopping distance? No problem!

This year we’ve been asked more than ever for advice on driving in France for the first time. We’ve driven in Poland, Germany, Belgium and the United Kingdom within the last 12 months and have always felt a sense of relief to be back on French roads again.

The plus points

Uncrowded motorways with good surfaces which make for less stressful driving.

A compulsory reduction in speed during wet weather.

Roadsides which are generally clean, without drinks cans and polystyrene decorating the verge and polythene which looks as if it grows on the roadside trees.

Well maintained roads even in the smaller villages. Pot holes are rare.

Most lorries over 7.5 tonnes are banned from the roads and motorways at the weekends from 10.pm Saturday to 10 pm Sunday and also on public holidays. From early July to mid August the ban starts earlier – 7 am on the Saturday.

As well as Service Areas on the motorways there is a plentiful number of rest areas which often have children’s play areas, trees or artificial shade and picnic benches.

Cheaper fuel. Petrol tends to be very similar to UK prices (depending on the exchange rate) but diesel is 20% less. The Carrefour website at Calais has a ready conversion of their prices to the current exchange rate.  Link

Minus points

Motorway tolls –  an extra expense, but no constant changing of speed which saves fuel.

Directions tend to be posted at the last minute.

A new law – you must stop for anyone indicating they wish to cross the road!  This does not apply if they are within 50 m of a zebra crossing.  However, stopping for a pedestrian still causes some strange reactions.

The reputation of French drivers!

Driving in Style

This post is based on our own experiences, but you may have a different comment, a useful tip, an  interesting experience or amusing tale about driving in France to share?

10 tips for questions you might not think to ask when booking a holiday with young children.

You’ve found the holiday property which looks just perfect for your family. The photos are drop dead gorgeous, the sun seems to shine every day, the rural idyll you are looking for. That’s it, that’s the one for the perfect family holiday, perhaps the first time you have been away since the children were born.

But hang on a minute, it is so easy to get carried away and when you arrive find that the holiday you thought would soothe away all the stresses and strains is going to involve some compromises, some extra expense you had not thought about or worse still, driving miles with young children just to find somewhere for the perfect meal in a local bistro that existed only in your dreams.

Here are 10 questions you might not think to ask when booking a holiday with young children.

  1. Is there information provided on child friendly places to visit and places to eat which welcome young children.
  2. Is there equipment for young children eg high chair, cots, potties, bottle sterilisers, safety gates, and are there any supplementary charges these.
  3. Is the pool warm enough for children to use every day during their stay.
  4. Are there any neighbours and would a crying baby upset them?  Settling a child to new surroundings can be stressful enough, but coping with complaints the next morning only adds to the stress.
  5. Are the cleaning materials used eco-friendly, eg no dangerous chemicals left within reach or used for cleaning the property.
  6. Is there a Doctor’s surgery close by, with someone to help with translation.
  7. Is the property owner resident and familiar with local emergency services and the local hospital.
  8. Is the property pushchair friendly in order to walk to the local boulangerie or buy fresh food locally
  9. Is there any traffic noise and how far in the property from the road.
  10. What are the memorable things about the property that children will remember and take home with them, eg collecting eggs from the chickens, patting a donkey, learning about how vegetables grow or the names of wild flowers.

These tips are based on personal experience and comments from guests who have stayed in holiday properties with young children.

I would love to hear more helpful tips and advice from you.

Saying it with flowers in the Loire Valley

This coming Sunday is Mothering Sunday. A nursery in Hampshire has grown a stunning 200,000 blooms for this special occasion, with some gorgeous photos published by MailOnline. An amazing achievement requiring discipline and commitment.

Hampshire was my home before moving to France and there must have been some resonance with the area where we chose to live in France and beautiful Hampshire. We are close to Angers, where glass houses stretch for miles, and from where flowers, fruit and plants are sent all over France, and a multitude of vineyards producing a great variety of delicious wines

A little research made me realise the huge contribution when grouped together make to the local economy.

There are eight specialist areas: ornamental horticulture, fruit & vegetables, seeds, viticulture, medicinal and aromatic plants, mushrooms, cider apples and tobacco.

And the awesome goal of the sectors who have joined together to promote themselves?

‘To become a world reference for innovation in the world of plants’

Add together (if it were possible)  450 researchers and teaching researchers, 25,000 jobs, 4,000 companies, 25 higher training courses and 2,500 students, then put housing needs, shopping, entertainment and transport into the melting pot. It soon tells you how important this is to the vitality of the region.

For a light-hearted look at this wonderful achievement visit in our area, visit the website of Terra Botanica, an informative and fun theme park which has been created close to Angers. Even if your travel plans do not yet include a visit to this part of the Loire Valley, a virtual visit will entertain and make you want to know more.

Visit:            Terra Botanica

 

The Rose AlléeThe Rose Allée at Les Mortiers

 

 

Summer is on its way!

A post from one of our guests from New Zealand.

Rebecca is currently staying at Les Mortiers, a keen runner and cyclist she enjoys exploring the country roads and forest tracks around Les Mortiers.

Summer is on its way!

There is a definite feeling of summer in the air at Les Mortiers – forget spring – my heart belongs to summer! The last three days have been full of brilliant sunshine, and amazing sunrises and sunsets. Sunday afternoon saw us indulging in cider from Normandy outside in the late evening sun, Monday saw me dozing outside the gite in the warm sunshine, and Tuesday saw me running in a singlet!

Cider and Sunshine - a perfect combination

The last few mornings I have awoken with that special feeling of anticipation that only a summer morning can bring. The birds have been much more vocal. The daffodils and crocus are out, bringing cheerful  bursts of colour to the brown ground of winter. The evening light is definitely lasting a good hour longer now than when I arrived three weeks ago.

My favourite thing in all the world is feeling the sun on my skin…so I’m making sure I get all I can in case winter decides to make a cruel return!

Crocus the colour of warm sunshine

Terra Botanica – Just the place for families

Arm wrestle with a Pirate

Just the place for an Easter visit with children. Terra Botanica, near Angers in the Loire Valley, opens it gates again on April 9th. There are 11 hectares of gardens, aquatic areas and greenhouses.

Young adventurers looking for a life on the ocean waves or parents interested in spices and tropical plants should discover ‘De caps et d’épices’ (area C7)

Land Ahoy for Young Pirates!

Young brigands can try their strength against a pirate, spy oncoming vessels or look for treasure in a dead man’s chest!

Shipwrecked on Treasure Island

And if that does not rock your boat, then enter the glasshouse and experience the tropical heat of the Spice Islands.

This place is fun with a capital F,  yet at the same time inspires to care for our fragile environment. No preaching, just well presented information and entertainment for all ages.

‘De caps et d’épices’ is just one of 40 areas at Terra Botanica.

Terra Botanica, Angers

Journey to the centre of your digestion.

Terra Botanica is a full day’s outing, easy access and parking, all in a beautiful setting. The catering is excellent and sensibly priced: fresh salads, creative and healthy hamburgers all made from local sourced ingredients and served in recyclable containers.

Visit:                                  Terra Botanica

How to get there:         Directions